DIY – How to Install a Transition for Uneven Floors

After I installed my paper floor, I needed to work on the transition from the wood floor in the entryway into the dining room.

There was about a 3/4 inch difference!  Let’s just ignore my dirty wood floor.  That’s another story.

I did a little bit of research and found something fabulous called reducer molding.

Holla! See that little lip? It sits right on top of the wood floor!  Then you just use wood adhesive to glue it down!!!

While at Home Depot, I went to the aisle where the floor transitions are and stood there for about 5 minutes and didn’t see it anywhere.  I flagged down a very nice gentleman and asked if he knew where the reducer molding was.  It’s in the hardwood floor aisle!  FYI, it’s labeled as MPR (multi-purpose reducer).  Prepare for sticker shock.  Are you ready?  One 80 inch piece is about $28.  But… I had to remember that when it comes down to it, I had saved so much with the paper floor vs. hardwood, that this was nothing.

I got the molding home and immediately got out my Dremel and began sanding.  I got the Multi-Max about a month ago and  have definitely gotten my money’s worth.  I love this thing!  I have a Dremel 3000, but never used it because the parts were a pain in the rump to change out.  This Multi Max is 1000 times better!
Anyway, it has a sanding head, so I sanded the full length of the molding.

I measured, then measured again (you know the rule) and took it to my saw to cut.

I then took it inside and fit it in to place to make sure I cut it correctly.  It was a perfect fit!  here is a close up of the molding in place – before stain.

Yay!  I think it looks great!  Now it’s time to stain.  I took the molding to my garage to stain, because I am messy.  Very messy.

If you’ve never stained before there are some things to remember.  First, always sand your piece that you will be staining.  You need to give the stain something to grab on to.  Also, sometimes they put a glossy coat on these wood pieces (this one had one) so you need to dull that a bit before staining.

I used Rust-oleum’s Kona stain.  I really have fallen in love with this stain.

Next, I always use my husband’s old t-shirts to stain.  I cut them up, dip a corner in stain, and apply a liberal amount.  Then you’ll want to wipe the excess off.  When I first started staining, I would wipe most of the stain off during this step.  Just the excess folks!

Here is the stained piece in place!  I love it!  AND, it has 100% convinced me that I need to stain this entry floor (my hubby will love that I am planning a new project). It’s ready for some love.

I gave it a couple of coats of polyurethane and now the molding is ready to be glued down.

I used Liquid Nails and just put a swirly down the length of the transition piece, then stuck it to the floor.

I pushed a chair up to the molding to hold it in place.

Don’t step on it for 24 hrs.  Then…voilà!  Uneven floors – BE GONE!

Have you used reducer molding?  Any other transitions that you’ve used to fix these uneven floor issues?

This post is linked up to the following sites:
Not Just A Housewife
Sweet Haute
Lamberts Lately
Thrifty Decor Chick

DIY- Adding Trim to Baseboards

When I installed the paper floor in our dining room, I was faced with a problem…wall gap!

I had previously done a board and batten treatment and the bottom piece had been acting as my baseboard. The paper floor is significantly lower than the carpet was, so I was left with about a 3/4 inch gap.

[Read more…]

DIY Brown Paper Floor – Part 2


I was featured on Remodelaholic

It’s done!  I could kiss someone, I’m so happy!  The carpet is finally out of the dining room, the paper floor is complete and I have put down new molding…all in time for the sweetest boy’s 9th birthday party!

I shared here, how we ended up choosing paper floors.  Now it’s time for the steps, what went WRONG, how we fixed it and the final result!

Let’s get started!!

Materials Needed:

  • Box cutter (for removing carpet)
  • Twine (for binding rolled carpet)
  • Elmer’s Glue All
  • Rit Dye in Dark Brown
  • Water Based Polyurethane – designated for floors (NOT OIL BASED)
  • Disposable gloves
  • Paint brush
  • Brown contractor’s paper
  • Stain pad
  • Extension pole (I unscrewed mine from my broom and just used that)
  • Large bowl or pan
  • Measuring cup

1.  Remove the carpet
I’ll be honest, I don’t do this part.  Remember when I told you about my demo hubby?  He is THE best!  He went to the store and got a box cutter and twine and had this step complete in about an hour!  If you have trim/baseboards that need to be removed, do that first.  Next, cut the carpet in about 3ft strips.  This allows you to roll the carpet and padding up into manageable sized rolls.  Secure the roll with twine and haul it to the trash.

2.  Prep the sub-floor

Now that the carpet is out of there, it’s time to remove the tack strips, staples and hammer down any nails sticking up.  Once that is complete, I rolled Killz over my entire floor.  This is not necessary if you don’t have any stains, but I wanted a clean slate.  It helped too when placing the paper, because the unpainted sub floor would get dyed very easily and blend in with the paper, so I didn’t realize there were some spots that were not overlapped enough.  Foreshadowing alert, this was one of my issues!  

Once the Killz dried, I went over the seams of the sub-floor with thin fiberglass mesh tape.

3.  Rip up the paper
Iron Man 3 was on, so I ripped paper while that was playing.  I won’t lie, my hands hurt!  I may wear gloves if I do this again.  I ripped pieces anywhere from 6 inches to 16 inches, then crumpled them up and laid them out flat again.  Be sure to have 2 separate piles.  One for edges and one without.  You’ll place the pieces with edges around the perimeter of the room.  It takes A LOT of paper, so when you think you finally have enough…rip up some more!  Then, get a good night’s sleep because you are going to need it.

**Please note:  There is a front and back side of the paper.  Using dye or stain will help with making it more uniform.  If you don’t use either, make sure you know which side is the front and which side is the back because one is more absorbent and it may appear splotchy depending on your paper.  This is why the test boards are important.

4.  Mix the glue/dye mixture
Put on disposable gloves (you’ll thank me later for this one).  The ratio I used for each batch of glue/dye mixture was the following:

  • 2 cups of warm water (I found that the glue dissolved better in warm water)
  • 2 cups of glue
  • 2 TBS of Rit Dye

Once I combined all of these, the dye turned the mixture purple.  I would have 100% freaked out, but I had read from Marilyn at 4 You With Love’s blog to expect this, so I kept on going.

5.  Start placing the paper
Begin in a far corner of the room and work your way out, through the doorway.  Our dining room has 2 doors, so I just made sure I didn’t block myself out of any areas.  I took each piece of paper, dunked it in the mixture long enough for it to get saturated, but not so much that it would fall apart.  Pulled it through two fingers to get any excess off and placed it on the floor.  Be sure to overlap each piece about an inch because it will dry and shrink!

After about an hour on the floor, my knees and back were killing me, so I went out in the garage and pulled out my rolling garden cart.  It’s fantastic!  You sit on it and it has wheels, so you just roll from side to side.  I love it!  I just had to make sure that I only rolled it on the exposed sub-floor and not any parts that had already been papered.

Are you ready for this?  It took 8 hours of non-stop work. I did this all myself and don’t think I could handle doing it again alone.  There were times that I wanted to quit, scream, throw all the paper and dye in the trash, punch a hole in the wall… you get the point.  It’s a lot of work… A LOT.

As the paper begins to dry, the purple fades and a beautiful dark brown color shows through.  After 8 hours, I was beginning to see the edges and certain spots take on a personality of their own, with the dye gathering in the areas where I had crinkled up the paper.  I was loving it.

Then I went to bed.

When I woke up the next morning and walked hobbled in to my dining room, I gasped.  It was BEAUTIFUL!! The floor turned out so much better than I had ever imagined! I wanted to finish it up that day, but OMG I was so sore!  I decided I would pull a Scarlett and worry about it tomorrow.  I spent the majority of the day laying down and watching movies with the sweet boy.

The next morning, I couldn’t wait to get the polyurethane on it!!!  I did see a few spots where the paper had shrunk and the white Killz floor was showing.  No problem, I thought…I’ll just mix up some extra glue/dye stuff and create a patch.  Here are all the places I put patches.


The “patches” dried a completely different (lighter) color and where the glue/dye went past the edges, it turned super dark.  I was crushed, I ruined it.  I was so mortified that I didn’t even take any pictures.  Hours of tedious labor, down the toilet.  I tried darkening it very precisely with a paint brush, but no luck.  Finally, I went to my toolbox and pulled out my box cutter, then proceeded to cut out all of the patches and original paper under those patches.  I remixed and re-papered the patches and waited overnight.  It was an improvement, but I still was not satisfied.  My hubby (being the level-headed man he is) said, “let it sit for a couple of days, think about it and move on from there.”  I love him.  🙂

6.  Apply the polyurethane

After 2 days, I decided to go ahead and put the first coat of polyurethane on the floor. If the spots were lighter…then so be it.  I was going to put a rug down anyway and no one would really notice. I read where a lot of people brush the poly on with a paint brush… there was no way I was getting back down on that floor! I used a sponge applicator made specifically for finishing floors (about $6 at Lowes) and just screwed it in to my broom handle.  It was fast and it worked perfectly!  Here’s the other thing, after the first coat of poly, it looked better!  The spots were still visible, as you can see below, but it was definitely an improvement.

I waited a full 24 hours before putting the 2nd coat of poly on because, I had an idea that I thought would work. Now that I had one full coat of polyurethane on the floor and nothing was being absorbed by the paper, what if I added some of the leftover Rit dye to my next coat poly.  And that’s exactly what I did, it blended all of the spots beautifully!  I added a 3rd coat with more dye and the patches are now, not noticeable at all.  The last two coats of polyurethane were dye-free, so that’s 5 total.

Tip:  Looking back now, I should have taken the time to sand between my first and second coat of poly. There are a couple of places on the floor that are a bit uneven where a corner of the paper must have raised up.  

7.  Wait
I waited 7 days before I moved my furniture back in to the room and when I did, I didn’t move all of it back. I really like the open feel of the room.  The dark floor and white board and batten made the room look much larger.  This also gave me time to order a rug for the space.  I fell in love with this one from Target.

After the last coat of polyurethane, I installed trim around the bottom of the board and batten.  I also bought new 2″ white blinds today and am going to put those up tomorrow.  Then I’ll be able to keep the panels open and it will show off the DIY Craftsman trim I installed around the window (it use to be all dark wood trim in this room).

All in all, I really like this floor.  I’m so glad the carpet it gone.  Would I do it again?  Yes, but I would want company so I don’t lose my mind.  I’d also NEVER patch spots with large pieces of paper, small is definitely the way to go.

Have you considered brown paper floors?  What other flooring options have you used?  As far as cost, this room is 12×12 and the total cost was less than $100!  I still had a ton of paper left over, but I used all of the glue and the polyurethane (poly was about $50).

I’m linking up from these FAB link parties:

I installed the blinds today.  Below are two of the final pics!  I am FINALLY ready for my boy’s party tomorrow.  After that, the table and rug will go back to the middle of the floor.

Choosing Brown Paper Flooring – Part 1

This topic is going to be a “2 parter.”  I’m going to be pretty detailed in the steps, because I ran in to some issues that I want to discuss.

Here’s the back-story:
We have carpet… and pets, which is a nasty combination.  After years of complaining, my wonderful hubby FINALLY told me that I could get hardwood flooring throughout the house.  YES!

I searched high and low for the perfect floor that would hold up to our incontinent (but loved) yorkies and settled with hand scrapped solid bamboo flooring.  I ordered samples from and patiently awaited their arrival.

When the samples came in they were BEAUTIFUL!  BEAUTIFUL, I tell you!

I was elated, I carried these samples all over the house, holding them up to the walls, the couch, the trim, the bed… my face. Yes, I rubbed all over these samples… then it happened.  My eyes started to itch, then swell. WHAT?!  Are you kidding me?!  I have very bad allergies to all grasses and the only thing I can figure out, is that bamboo is a grass and maybe all my rubbing on the side that wasn’t sealed got to me.  Either way, can I risk putting this floor throughout my house, when the samples made me look like I had been punched in both eyes?  The let down was terrible.

I still had to, at least, do something about the carpet in our dining room… and I had read online where someone had used brown contractor’s paper as flooring and it looked almost like stained concrete…Say whaatt???  So on a whim, I told the hubby to do his demo magic and rip it out.  He was done in no time!

Once the carpet was gone, I had to do a couple of things that I had been putting off.  First, I needed to put a final coat of paint on the board and batten.  I recently purchased this paint sprayer from Amazon and was ready to put it to good use!

To tape off and protect the upper portion of the wall, I found this amazing stuff at Lowe’s, in the painting department.

It’s plastic with painter’s tape on one side, you simple press down the tape then unfold the plastic and it clings to the wall!  Amazing!!!

Once the board and batten was painted, I used Killz on the subfloor.  I pretty much just did the entire floor and I’m glad I did, I’ll tell you why in my next post that includes all of the steps.

In between painting the walls and the sub floor, I did a test board of two methods for the brown paper flooring.

I cannot express how important it is to do a test board.

I used a scrap piece of plywood and on one side, I used RIT dye in dark brown, on the other side I used Minwax stain.  I polyurethaned both sides and waited for the results.

RIT dye wins!!
Here is a picture of the test board (Rit dye side) next to my wall.

I ended up choosing the RIT dye for several reasons:

  • From the research I had done, I found that when you do the stain it stays tacky until you put your first coat of poly on.
  • There are also horror stories of white splotches on the stained version after the poly due to how the stain and poly react together with the paper and the paper actually having a front and back side.  
  • I knew if I used the dye it should all be pretty uniform if I made sure my measurements were the same for each batch of glue, water and dye.  
  • I also liked the idea of being able to darken the floor in increments if needed by placing some of the dye in the coats of poly.

That’s it for now!  In the next post, I’ll list out all of the steps I took and the final results!