Baseboards over baseboards… over baseboards. I’ve always had a hate/hate relationship with the baseboards in our house. I wanted white and beautiful and this house has ugly brown. [Read more…]
Let me just say, I am loving the way my bathroom is coming together. I still have a couple of finishing touches to complete, but it is such an improvement and has been a very fun project!
If you remember from my last post, I had a wax ring fail in my toilet and it had completely ruined the subfloor in the bathroom. “Ruined” doesn’t really do the damage justice…my floor collapsed and I was looking in my crawlspace…annihilated is a much more appropriated word!
I decided to take the opportunity and completely renovate the bathroom. The floor tile I chose was an easy pick. Here it is laid and ready for grout.
After I installed my paper floor, I needed to work on the transition from the wood floor in the entryway into the dining room.
There was about a 3/4 inch difference! Let’s just ignore my dirty wood floor. That’s another story.
Holla! See that little lip? It sits right on top of the wood floor! Then you just use wood adhesive to glue it down!!!
While at Home Depot, I went to the aisle where the floor transitions are and stood there for about 5 minutes and didn’t see it anywhere. I flagged down a very nice gentleman and asked if he knew where the reducer molding was. It’s in the hardwood floor aisle! FYI, it’s labeled as MPR (multi-purpose reducer). Prepare for sticker shock. Are you ready? One 80 inch piece is about $28. But… I had to remember that when it comes down to it, I had saved so much with the paper floor vs. hardwood, that this was nothing.
I got the molding home and immediately got out my Dremel and began sanding. I got the Multi-Max about a month ago and have definitely gotten my money’s worth. I love this thing! I have a Dremel 3000, but never used it because the parts were a pain in the rump to change out. This Multi Max is 1000 times better!
Anyway, it has a sanding head, so I sanded the full length of the molding.
I measured, then measured again (you know the rule) and took it to my saw to cut.
I then took it inside and fit it in to place to make sure I cut it correctly. It was a perfect fit! here is a close up of the molding in place – before stain.
Yay! I think it looks great! Now it’s time to stain. I took the molding to my garage to stain, because I am messy. Very messy.
If you’ve never stained before there are some things to remember. First, always sand your piece that you will be staining. You need to give the stain something to grab on to. Also, sometimes they put a glossy coat on these wood pieces (this one had one) so you need to dull that a bit before staining.
I used Rust-oleum’s Kona stain. I really have fallen in love with this stain.
Next, I always use my husband’s old t-shirts to stain. I cut them up, dip a corner in stain, and apply a liberal amount. Then you’ll want to wipe the excess off. When I first started staining, I would wipe most of the stain off during this step. Just the excess folks!
Here is the stained piece in place! I love it! AND, it has 100% convinced me that I need to stain this entry floor (my hubby will love that I am planning a new project). It’s ready for some love.
I gave it a couple of coats of polyurethane and now the molding is ready to be glued down.
I used Liquid Nails and just put a swirly down the length of the transition piece, then stuck it to the floor.
I pushed a chair up to the molding to hold it in place.
Don’t step on it for 24 hrs. Then…voilà! Uneven floors – BE GONE!
Have you used reducer molding? Any other transitions that you’ve used to fix these uneven floor issues?
When I installed the paper floor in our dining room, I was faced with a problem…wall gap!
I had previously done a board and batten treatment and the bottom piece had been acting as my baseboard. The paper floor is significantly lower than the carpet was, so I was left with about a 3/4 inch gap.